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At last count, the car was a "moderately modified" '02 Z06. It . . . uhh . . . I think passed "moderately modified" a little bit ago. Way too many hits from the go-fast crack pipe for my own good, I think.
I think the chassis is mostly the same still. While the passenger floor panels are fairly "stock", they've been drilled, filled, and reinforced in places. The rear compartment has been hacked and rebuilt in spots. Interior is virtually non-existant.
It's not to say that I can't or don't drive the thing on the street when it's on R's, but it's just for the best if I don't. For the inevitable moron who thinks this means I don't drive it on the street because I don't want to drive fast . . . . . try driving a car that's set up to run at speed in a corner 7x24, with zero ground clearance. Speed bumps and driveways are nearly impossible to navigate.
It's not the fastest ITE beastie out there, but it's a hell of a weekend warrior and solid performer. The current list:
-> World Challenge flared fenders, font fascia, splitter, undertray, 72" functional wing, and side sills. It's a neverending battle, I'll tell 'ya. Remove 10 lbs here, 20 lbs there, and another 5 lbs there . . . . add 200 lbs in downforce. Crazy stuff, this racing. Most of the stuff is from Kerry at ACP, although the wing is a low-drag, low-speed, high lift design from Gary at Hardbar.
-> Roll cage . . . fully triangulated, the ultimate chassis stiffener. Literally, I can pick the entire car up by 2 points.
-> Accusump. Oil == good, and it's cheaper than a dry sump at this point. Once the new motor goes in, it'll be a different story, but the Accusump will stay as a pre-oiler.
-> Ron Davis radiator and oil cooler. A cool motor is a happy motor.
-> Transmission and diff cooler. The only thing better than a happy motor, is a happy drivetrain.
-> Vararam VR1B intake: Not my favorite install, but well worth the work. Makes positive air pressure above 80mph, and keeps getting better from there. Besides, it makes a really cool sucking sound at the front of the car.
-> K&N filter for Vararam intake: Does not flow as well as the foam filters, however holds up better for regular use and cleaning.
-> Halltech air bridge: Cool carbon fiber makeup, and slightly better flow. I'm not one for "looks cool" mods, and I'm not a great believer in airbridge == huge gains. My motivation was to smooth the airflow to the TB.
-> Ported / polished TB: Better throttle response, but not much for HP gains.
-> Ported / polished Z06 heads: Flow over 300 @ 500, and was the only viable option at the time . . . AFR hadn't put heads together yet.
-> Yella Terra 1.7 roller rockers: Non adjustable, but 1000 times better than the stock needle-bearing rockers.
-> Crane dual-spring valve springs: Rated for 600 and fast ramp rates, and evidently does not have the same basic problems as the CompCams and REV springs. This is a replacement set over the REV that I had but broke after 9000 miles.
-> MMS cam - 229/229 , .578 lift, 114LSA: Original intent was to install a mild cam which could get close to CA emissions law, however it's ended up being a solid performing cam that makes good power across the entire band.
-> LG Motorsports custom longtube headers: Used to make the most power of any other header on the market, and still does. Since they're the custom headers, there's a bit of a clearance issue with the v-clamps, but in the grand scheme of things it's not an issue -- if I'm ever in a position to where I really need that extra 1/2 inch of clearance, I've got bigger issues.
-> Custom 3" h-pipe and exhaust: Most people will say that 3" is overkill, and will probably end up killing mid-range power. Haven't seen a loss of power in the grand scheme of things, and it's ended up making an exotic exhaust note that's far from the common Borla and Corsa sound on most C5's.
-> AP Racing brakes: 6 pot front, and 4 pot rear calipers on 14" and 13.5" rotors. Zero fade, strong pedal feedback, and none of the regular issues that folk run into with the stock brakes.
-> Pagid RS14 or Raybestos ST-41/43 pads. After wearing out the Ferodo DS3000+'s, I decided that I liked the RS14's better. The Raybestos have been decent, but haven't run enough to tell whether I like them better than the Pagid.
-> DRM master with Wilwood proportioning valve. The stock master worked out OK, but the larger master was just a requirement after beating the hell out of the brakes. The valve helps keep the car flat, even though most folk just fall into the "the front brakes do all the work" mode of thought. Flatter, the car is much more predictable, and pitches less on a hard entrance into a turn. With the flatter entrance, I've been able to keep the car going in the right direction MUCH better . . .
-> JRZ Dual Adjustable shocks: The stock Z shocks are OK, but aside from the '04 Z shocks or some other valved Blisten you have to move to a race shock. The Penskes seem to be more valved for Auto-X use, while the JRZ have been flawless on virtually every track.
-> Hyperco springs. Thankfully, the bodies of the JRZ shocks are threaded, so there's zero other equipment required aside from shock and spring. Current rates are 800 and 900 lbs front/rear.
-> GM T1 Sway bars: The Z06 bars were good, the hotchkis were better . . . but the T1 bars are about as close to ‘perfect’ as possible, without getting really crazy. Cool blue color, and solid end-links.
-> CCW Track Classic wheels: Super light weight 3 piece wheels, which makes life easy if things (or the driver) gets stupid. Track fitment is 11x18 and 12x18, with .750 and .850 spacers to clear the brakes. Street fitment is a whole .5” narrower.
-> Spectre Works HID exposed headlights: Same basic mount & look as the C5R, with none of the pop-up speedbrake effect when you need lights. A good 3-4 times brighter, too, with much better coverage.
-> FAST cool suit. For all the car mods, this has got to be the best money I've spent. Seriously.
-> ESS 5l fire system. This is one of those things that I'm hoping that I'll never need to use . . . but boy, howdy . . . when it's needed, I'm pretty sure that I'll like the result. Good news, the system is refillable without too much work. Rinse the car out with water, refill the system, and we're back in business.
-> Racetech 4009WHR seat. Comfy as all get-out, and super solid. Head restraint version, just in case. Takes a little getting used to, but well worth it.
-> Simpson platinum 6 point belts.
-> Racepak G2X datalogger with Maxstream radio modem for telemetry.
-> AMB 260X hardwired transponder and DisplayIT display. Yes, the G2X has a dash that's pretty well complete and accurate, but since SCCA is pretty well dialed in with the AMB stuff, the extra confimation and info from the DisplayIT is helpful.
-> Super-secret tune via LS1 edit and HPTunes. Last dyno was 439RWHP / 408RWTQ in street trim (read, with cats).
And, one of a bunch of different types of tire
-> Goodyear Eagle G19 slicks -- 25.5x11.5x18’s up front and 28.0x12.5x18’s out back. Everything rubs . . . wheel wells, fenders, you name it. The wells I don’t really worry about too much, since the fender linings don’t need to be there. The fenders themselves, different story.
-> Hoosier R's -- 305-18's and 335-18's. Fronts rub worse than the rears, but what's crazy is that the front R's rub worse than the slicks, but the rears rub less.
-> Toyo RA1's -- Same basic fitment as the Hoosier's, but the RA1's seem to wear better more consistently. The Hoosiers have more grip at the start, but fall off . . . the Toyos are damn consistent all the way through. There's a ton of custom stuff that's had to be done just to replace or augment the existing stuff in the car . . . mostly to make sure that it still functions. DIY column lock bypasses, ignition systems, and the like all took some electrical work.
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